For hair care to really work, understanding your hair type and texture matters. Whether you have curly hair that won’t be tamed or straight strands that poof up in humidity, each head of hair needs a different kind of TLC. And with twelve different hair types (yes, we said twelve) and three different hair textures, it can all start to get a little confusing. Especially if you have more than one hair type, which is actually pretty common. For a breakdown on each hair type and texture—plus styling tips for each—keep reading.

What's the difference between hair type and texture?

While you often hear “hair type” and “hair texture” used interchangeably, they actually describe two different things. Hair type refers to the natural wave pattern of your hair, like straight or curly, while hair texture refers to the thickness of each individual strand, like fine or thick. 

So why does this matter for your hair care routine? Let’s look at an example. Someone with a wavy hair type and a fine hair texture may require lightweight hydration, while someone with the same hair type but a thick hair texture may need a heavier dose of moisture. So, getting specific matters to find the best hair care products for your unique needs.

What are the three main hair textures?

When discussing hair texture, stylists break it down into three categories: fine, medium, or thick (or coarse). Each category describes the thickness of each strand of hair, with fine being the thinnest and coarse hair being the thickest. And while many people may assume that all straight hair is fine and all curly hair is thick, each hair texture can be applied to any hair type. In general, each hair texture has its own unique set of concerns when looking for the right hair care products.

Fine Hair Texture

Despite having a soft and silky finish, fine hair is often considered the most fragile texture. It’s a breeze to blow out and straighten, but it can also tangle easily and is typically more susceptible to damage and breakage. 

So even though fine hair is easy to style, it’s important to prevent damage with heat protectants or hot tools that use less heat. Our fine-haired friends may also want to apply products that help with volume so that it doesn’t fall flat. To prevent strands from going limp, go for lightweight products and only use as much as you need. 

Medium Hair Texture

As you can probably guess, medium hair textures are somewhere in between fine hair and thick hair. It is sometimes referred to as a “normal” hair texture because it is the most common. Generic hair products are typically made to fit this hair texture so that they are appropriate for the largest group of people, kind of like a one-size-fits-most idea. 

Like fine hair, medium hair texture is somewhat easy to style and has a soft finish, but it may be less prone to breakage. If you have this hair texture, you have the most flexibility when choosing hair care products but be wary of buildup. Apply styling products at the ends of your hair and work your way up so as not to use more than you need.

Thick Hair Texture

Sometimes called coarse, thick hair is often revered as the most resilient hair texture. It holds style well, tolerates heat, and can be less prone to breakage than fine or medium hair. That said, it can be much thirstier than other textures, which can cause it to look frizzy or fluffy. 

So with this hair texture, don’t be afraid to pile on the hydration. It can handle more products in the hair without the risk of it weighing down, and thrives on deeply moisturizing products. And even though thick hair can handle more heat styling with less breakage, make sure to apply a heat protectant to give hair a more polished look.

What are the four main hair types?

Hair types are usually broken down into four basic types: straight (type 1), wavy (type 2), curly (type 3), or coily (type 4). Each type broadly describes the hair’s natural pattern when air-dried and in its unstyled state. Now, we say broadly because each hair type also has three subcategories that get more specific. For example, if someone has type 1a hair, they have pin-straight hair with no bends. If someone has type 1b hair, they have mostly straight hair, perhaps with a few bends. 

It’ also important to note that many of us have more than one hair type. It’s totally possible to have mostly wavy hair and curly hair around the nape of your neck. So with that in mind, let’s take a closer look at each hair type and discover which type (or types!) fit you best. 

Straight Hair (Type 1)

Whether your hair is thin and silky or thick and fluffy, almost all straight hair is known for its radiant shine. That otherworldly glow is courtesy of the oil from your scalp that can easily slip and slide down your strands to give them that hydrated, healthy-looking shine. While all straight hair is, of course, straight, there can be some minor differences within this hair type. 

- Type 1a: The flattest, thinnest, and smoothest of the straight hair types. This silky hair type requires lightweight hydration that won’t weigh it down and styling products that offer added texture. 

- Type 1b: This hair type is still straight as an arrow, but may also have some bends and a few unruly strands. Anyone with 1b hair is likely fighting off greasy roots, rather than frizz or dry ends.

- Type 1c: 1c hair types are thicker and coarser than their other straight-haired counterparts, which means they may also be more likely to have frizz, poofiness, and dryness. This type of hair can be natural or potentially caused by heat or chemical damage—but not to worry! Make a hair mask part of your weekly routine. 

Straight Hair Care Heroes: eSalon Custom Shampoo and Conditioner, Schwarzkopf Fibre Clinic Hydrate Spray Conditioner, Joico InnerJoi Sea Salt Spray, Kenra Platinum Rapid Hydration Mask Light

Wavy Hair (Type 2)

If you have wavy hair, your hair has bends and curves throughout your entire mane. One or two wavy spots are not enough to be considered type 2 hair—you may have 1b or 1c hair. Type 2 hair can range from effortless beachy waves to undefined zig-zags, but it is not to be confused with curly hair. Let’s examine some of the differences within the wavy hair family. 

- Type 2a: 2a hair has a flat S-shape pattern that gives it its wavy texture. This hair type tends to be thinner and flatter than any other wavy hair, making it easy to blow-dry and straighten. Just remember the heat protectant! 

- Type 2b: Usually featuring a fine and/or medium thickness, 2b hair types have a more defined S-shape pattern throughout the hair. Their thicker, more wavy texture makes them more likely to deal with frizz and fluff. Make sure to prioritize hydrating and smoothing products. 

- Type 2c: Much like its wavy sisters, 2c hair features defined S-shaped curves but may also have some loose curls sprinkled throughout. Since they’re on the cusp of curly hair, this hair type may be slightly coarser and more prone to frizz and lost definition. Find a lightweight curl-defining cream to smooth hair while adding shape. 

Wavy Hair Care Heroes: eSalon Custom Shampoo and Conditioner, Joico InnerJoi Hydrate Detangler, eSalon Cloud Mousse, Kenra Lightweight Defining Creme

Curly Hair (Type 3)

To be officially considered a curly girl, your hair must be full of defined curls shaped like springs instead of flat, S-shaped waves. Curly hair types are especially unique and can feature many different variations on their head at once. Keep reading to get a more detailed view of each. 

- Type 3a: As the first of the curly hair types, 3a hair has mostly curls but may have a few stray wavy patterns as well. This hair type tends to be fine, easily styled, and reacts easily to humidity, wind, and dryness. A good curl cream that keeps humidity at bay goes a long way! 

- Type 3b: Anyone with 3b hair usually has bouncy ringlets about the circumference of their finger. They are well defined, but they can also be dry and frizzy. Don’t be afraid to up the hydration in your hair care routine. 

- Type 3c: As we go down the curly categories, the curls keep getting tighter and smaller. So if you have 3c hair, you likely have defined curls about the size of a pencil. These types of curls are also prone to breakage, frizz, and dryness. Make sure to use a hydrating hair mask whenever your curls start to get out of hand. 

Curly Hair Care Heroes: Custom Shampoo and Conditioner, Alterna Anti-Aging Replenishing Moisture CC Cream, Kenra AllCurl Sealing Oil Spray, DevaCurl Ultra Defining Gel

Coily Hair (Type 4)

Last but certainly not least, coily hair describes hair that can have a mix of textures that range from a tightly coiled, spring-like pattern to a small Z-shaped pattern that doesn’t actually curl all the way around. Also referred to as kinky-curly, type 4 hair is often considered one of the more high-maintenance categories. 

Naturally occurring scalp oils are not able to easily hydrate the hair, making it prone to breakage and dryness. That said, it can also be one the most versatile to style—braids, up-dos, twists, this hair can do it all. 

- Type 4a: 4a hair is the tightest of the coil family and features teeny tiny spring-shaped coils and maybe a few 3c curls throughout. Use a moisturizing curl gel to keep this hair type defined and hydrated. 

- Type 4b: This hair type appears curly at a distance, but 4b (and c) hair actually bends itself in a sharp, Z-shape that has the circumference of a spring in a ballpoint pen. This type of coily hair tends to shrink and dry out more easily than 4a, so keep hair moisturized and defined with a leave-in that elongates and holds hair in place. 

- Type 4c: The coiliest of all coils, 4c hair has a Z-shape pattern that's way tighter than 4b hair, and it also naturally has fewer cuticle layers than any other hair type, meaning hydration is the name of the game. This hair type thrives on heavyweight moisture and can even go stretches of time without being washed—as long as you keep your scalp clean and nourished. 

Coily Hair Care Heroes: Custom Shampoo and Conditioner, Schwarzkopf Fibre Clinic Fiber Sealer, Alterna Anti-Aging Restructuring Bond Repair Serum, DevaCurl Supercream

No matter which hair type or texture you’re working with—from silky straight strands to tight coily curls—understanding your hair’s unique makeup is the key to making your dream hair a reality. 

At eSalon, we make it easy to find the perfect fit for your unique hair type and texture. Our made-for-you custom hair care is designed to match your exact goals, ensuring your products work with your hair—not against it. Because when your hair care is custom, great hair days become your everyday.